The strange name refers to a time in the early 1970s when this restaurant was above the Academy Cinema (sadly no more) and décor as camp as a row of tents was supplied by surrealist photographer Angus McBean. Ownership has stayed in the same family who some say offer good cop-bad cop service, but serenely supervising the kitchen is the venerable chef Vasco Matteucci who imports wild herbs, oil, cheeses, truffles and cured meats from his native Umbria.
Pasta is made on the premises and tortelloni – not to be missed – might have fillings as various as wild mushroom, duck, sea bass or aubergine. Food is simple and good; assemblies on the plate could never be accused of showing off.
Eating here is like eating in Italy – and in Soho of old when it was the area you had to visit to find olive oil to buy. Lunchtime attracts media folk, evenings canny politicians. FM